Connoisseur's Corner: Pelargonium crithmifolium
by Carl Frederick (San Anselmo, Ca.)
San Francisco C&SS
Helpful Hint: Draining Heavy Pots
by Thomas M. Schwink
Mid-Iowa C&S Society
My Cactus Club
By Linda Tamblyn
Prickly Press, Kansas City C & S
If it's Flowers You Want, Then it's Echinopsis You Need!
by Emy de la Fuente, Jr.
Cereus Chatter, South Florida C&S
Lithops (Treasures of the Veld): A book review
by Kerry Krivoshein
From Spinal Column -- Michigan C&S
Pasteurizing Soil
By Chuck Staples
Mid-Iowa C&SS
Succulent Euphorbias of Africa and Madagascar
By Dennis Kucera
Open Gates (Gates C&SS)
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Connoisseur's Corner: Pelargonium crithmifolium
by Carl Frederick (San Anselmo, Ca.)
San Francisco C&SS
Pelargonium crithmifolium is one of the pachycaul members of the genus with fat green branched stems. Leaves are deeply divided like carrot top greens. The flowers are small and white but with pretty streaks of red-purple on the petals, borne on a branched inflorescence. Like many pelargoniums, this one has a habit of branching sympodially, which means that stems typically emerge from a central meristem until an inflorescence develops, replacing the meristem. Since the inflorescence does not continue to grow after flowering is complete, the plant is forced to branch. Sympodial branching is nice for producing compact, manageable and attractive plants. Plants that don't branch in this manner grow linearly tending toward leggy or lanky habits. Many horticulturists have resorted to various methods of "killing" the meristem to induce branching. The most obvious is to pinch the meristem of soft-tissued plants. For others, the meristematic region can be severed or scorched with a red-hot nail to minimize scarring. If your aim is precise, the nail need not be too thick since the meristem is just a single cell! Usually it's better not to resort to these measures to get a plant to branch since it probably doesn't want to anyway and can result in an uncharacteristic plant. With regard to P. crithmifolium it is particularly nice to allow the plant to flower and branch on its own since the inflorescence is so beautiful. As I write this, my seed-grown plant is nearing the end of its flowering. The inflorescence of P. crithmifolium is much different from that of the other species that I grow, being a thickly-branched, beautifully red structure. The flowers are unique too in that the male parts are somewhat cryptic. On most of my pelargonium species flowers the female part develops first and as this retreats it is replaced with very obvious stamens, anthers and pollen. Last year my P. crithmifolium plant did flower though very sparsely and no seed pods were produced. With the much larger inflorescence this year I got my camel- hair brush and was ready to pollinate. Each flower's stigma appeared as I expected and I waited patiently for the stamens to develop so I could self- pollinate (most pelargoniums are self-fertile). No stamens appeared. Suspicious, I got out my hand lens, a most useful tool, and had a look at the flowers up close. What I saw was that there were indeed stamens surrounding each stigma but they were much reduced in size from what I was expecting and there was very little pollen evident. I tried pollinating right away. So far it's a bit early to tell how well it has worked because I have only one seedpod obviously developing after a relatively short time. This plant, with its spectacular branched inflorescence, is certainly special but the other pellies all have their charms. Once again, I must play my broken record and recommend that you grow them.
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Helpful Hint: Draining Heavy Pots
by Thomas M. Schwink
Mid-Iowa C&S Society
Some of my potted plants (in my home) are now too heavy for me to lift. These include some of my Aloe polyphylla plants. Since I usually water from above and need to remove what drains out the bottom of the pots to prevent buildup of salts, I had to figure out how to do this without lifting the very heavy pots. I use folded paper towels to drain the water from the saucers. The paper towels function as wicks and as siphons, allowing me to empty the saucers without lifting the pots. In my greenhouse I have several pots which are also too heavy for me to lift easily. I use the paper towels in the same way there, putting one end in the saucer and letting the other end hang over the side of the bench, so that the water drains from the saucers onto the greenhouse floor.
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My Cactus Club
By Linda Tamblyn
Prickly Press, Kansas City C & S
Everyday, well almost everyday, I visit my plants. I look for signs of mealies or, that nemesis, rot and all-the-while hoping to find bursts of new growth and buds forming. When I do find a bud popping out or fresh green growth I might begin to check my plants as many times a day as my schedule permits. These plants are a part of my life that I really enjoy. Time spent with them is a mini-vacation. When a bud finally opens I want to share it with someone. Especially someone who can appreciates the redolence of a stapelia. When an anacampseros cutting begins to grow, after sitting out of soil on the shelf for a year, I need to tell someone that understands the significance of that event. I have been blessed, or perhaps its cursed, with a perpetual need to grow plants. Especially cactus and succulents. Since my husband, kids, neighbors, etc., have learned to say Oh, thats neat, without having any clue what my excitement is all about, I sought out a group of interested persons - my cactus club. This fine group of people totally understands the joy of seeing a seed grown turbinocarpus bloom for the first time. They know the bliss of seeing an adenium put forth new growth after a long, dark winter. When I lost many plants in a hailstorm these wonderful friends not only gave me heartfelt condolences but offered cuttings and pups to replace what been destroyed. When I bring my plants to the show and hear these friends exclaim What beauties! its worth more to me than one hundred blue ribbons. This hobby takes on a new and richer dimension when it is shared. My cactus club is a very diverse group of people. I dont always agree with their politics or viewpoints but Im not there to discuss any of that. All I want to talk about are cactus and succulents with people who share the same excitement I feel. I like it that these folks know what a glochid is and, more importantly, how to remove one. Theres great comfort in having someone to commiserate with about root rot. Also, you see, my significant other just doesnt understand the heartbreak of scale on a prized Astrophytum. Thats why I volunteer to do little jobs to help keep the club going. And, why I work hard to make sure the show is a success every year. Giving up a weekend to work long hours at the sale tables really isnt work at all because Im in my element. Life just wouldnt be as much fun if I couldnt get together with my cactus friends and talk shop. #
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If it's Flowers You Want, Then it's Echinopsis You Need!
by Emy de la Fuente, Jr.
Cereus Chatter, South Florida C&S
The genus Ehinopsis was established in 1837 making it one of the oldest cactus genera. These plants are native of Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Paraguay and Uruguay.
The plants are generally green and globular with 8 to 30 sharp and continuous ribs. Their spines are usually uniform without any major differentiation of the central or radial spines. Older specimens tend to become somewhat elongated.
While the plants in this genus are generally not spectacular in appearance, their flowers more than make up for it. Their flowers are large and quite colorful. They appear laterally and are long and trumpet-like in shape. They are also very scaly and hairy. They bear a distinct ring of throat stamens that separate them from the stamens of any other plant.
The genus Echinopsis is related to the genera Lobivia, Pseudolobivia, Helianthocereus and Soiehrensia. All these plants flowers which are scaly and hairy with a recessed ring of throat stamens. Echinopsis are very easy to hybridize. In fact, there are many species of well-known hybrids, which are sought for their beautiful and profuse flowers. As a matter of fact, for the last several years, Huntington Botanical Gardens has offered the world famous Bob Schick hybrids for sale as part of the ISI program. For example, the following page contains a photo of a Schick hybrid called "Brigitte's Beauty". Its flowers reach 101/2 cm (4 in) across. Some species of Echinopsis have even been hybridized with species of related genera.
Their flowers can be both diurnal or nocturnal. Those specimens which flower during the day bear flowers which range from yellow to red. Those which flower at night bear white or pale lilac flowers with a very pleasant scent. Diurnal and nocturnal flowers are identical in shape. Flowers may open for only a day or may remain open for three days, depending on the species. It appears that specimens bearing diurnal flowers are endemic of regions of high altitudes (1,700 to 3,500 meters {5,600 to 11,500 feet}). Those bearing flowers during the evening appear in locations of lower altitudes.
To care for these plants in cultivation, they should be provided with well drained soil which is rich in humus. They should be kept relatively warm in the winter being careful not to expose them to temperatures below 10( C (50( F). They should not be allowed to dry out completely. If exposed to extreme cold and/or dryness in the winter, they may not come out of dormancy at spring-time. During their growth period (spring through early fall), they should be watered and fertilized often. They should be kept in very bright conditions but care should be exercised not to expose them directly to the scorching midday sun.
Plants in this genus can be propagated from seed with seedlings being able to flower after they are four years old. A faster method of propagation is from pups, which these plants tend to form regularly. Pups may begin to produce roots while they are still attached to their mother plant.
Some of the better-known species in the Echinopsis genus include:
E. ancistrophora. This is native of Argentina. It is a relatively small species (5 to 8 cm. {2 to 3 1/4 in.}). Its flowers are white, diurnal and range from (12 to 16 cm. 4 3/4 to 6 1/4 in.}).
E. arachnacantha. This species from Bolivia is very small (up to 4 cm. {1 1/2 in.}). Its diurnal flowers range from golden yellow to orange.
E. arachnacanta v. torrecillasensis. Same as above except for carmine red flowers.
E. aurea. A native of Argentina, this species can reach a diameter of 7 cm. (2 3/4 in). Its diurnal flowers can are yellow.
E. calochlora. This plant's diameter is between 6 to 9 cm. (2 1/4 to 3 1/2 in.). It bears white, nocturnal flowers and is a native of Brazil.
E. calorubra. This species is relative larger reaching diameters of 14 cm. (5 1/2 in.). It is native of Bolivia and bears flowers which orange-red, bluish pink towards the base. The flowers can be 15 cm. (6 in.) in length.
E. cardenasiana. Also a native of Bolivia, this plant can reach 10 cm. (4 in.) in diameter. Its diurnal flowers are bluish red with greenish-white throats.
E. eyriesii. This plant (up to 15 cm. {6 in.} in width) has a wide habitat from South Brazil to Argentina to Uruguay. It is nocturnal with flowers opening in late afternoon. It bears white flowers. E. ferox. This species is quite large with diameters reaching 20 cm. (73/4 in.). Its diurnal flowers can range from the usual white to pink or yellow. It is a native of Bolivia.
E. hamatacantha. A native of Argentina, this species can reach 15 cm. (6 in.) in diameter. Its flowers are nocturnal, white, scented and up to 20 cm. (73/4 in.) long.
E. kratochviliana. This plant reaches a width of 6 cm. (21/4 in.). It bears small, white diurnal flowers. It is a native of Argentina.
E. leucantha. This native of Argentina can reach 15 cm. (6 in.) in diameter. It bears white, scented, nocturnal flowers reaching 20 cm. (73/4 in.).
E. mammillosa v. kermesina. This plant is native of Argentina and can reach 15 cm. (6 in.) in diameter. It bears red, diurnal flowers reaching 18 cm. (7 in.).
E. multiplex. This native of S. Brazil can reach 15 cm. (6 in.) in diameter. It bears flesh- colored nocturnal flowers with pink at the tip reaching 20 cm. (73/4 in.) The flowers have a strong pleasant scent.
E. obrepanda v. calorubra. This plant reaches 14 cm. (51/2 in.) in width. It is native of Bolivia and bears red, diurnal flowers which may reach 15 cm. (6 in.).
E. oxygona. Probably the largest in the genus, this species may reach 25 cm. (10 in.) in diameter. It is native of S. Brazil and Uruguay. Its flowers are pale red, diurnal and may also reach 25 cm. (10 in.).
E. polyancistra. This native of Argentina only reaches 6 cm. (21/4 in.) in diameter. Its flowers are thin, white and scented.
E. silvestrii. This plant's diameter can reach 15 cm. (6 in.). It is a native of Argentina. Its flowers are white and can reach 20 cm. (73/4 in.) in length.
E. toralapana. This Bolivian species can reach 16 cm. (61/4 in.) across. Its flowers are bluish-red.
E. tubiflora. This native of Argentina has white, nocturnal flowers, which can reach 20 cm. (73/4 in) in length. The plant can reach a diameter of 12 cm. (43/4 in.).
In summary, Echinopsis are classified as excellent plants for moderate, well balanced cultural conditions. Aside from the extremes mentioned earlier, they will thrive with relatively little care. Just think of it, a relatively easy plant to cultivate, which will reward you with plenty of large, bright colorful flowers! How can you resist?
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Lithops (Treasures of the Veld): A book review
by Kerry Krivoshein
From Spinal Column -- Michigan C&S
Published in 1999 by the British Cactus and Succulent Society via the East Anglian Engraving Co., Ltd, Norwich, UK, 148 pp., Steven Hammer (author), hardcover, $59.95, softcover, $36.95. Available through Rainbow Gardens Bookstore, Vista, CA, and directly from the British Cactus and Succulent Society.
Hammer is a well-known mesemb expert and plant explorer who has authored several articles on the subject, and the book The Genus Conophytum-A Conograph, and contributed the book Mesembs of the World. He was named a CSSA Fellow in 1997 and currently resides in Vista, CA. Chris Barnhill, who is an avid plantsman as well, took the photographs in the book. He has explored the African continent and manages the Fullerton Arboretum in Southern California.
Lithops are very popular and readily identifiable plants that are native to South Africa, and are part of a larger group of succulent plants known as the mesembryanthamum (or "mesembs"). They are also known as "living stones".
The first 48 pages are broken up into a series of small chapters that discuss the history of the plants, how they were discovered, and how they were classified. Culture, habitat, and discussions about the work Ed Storms and Desmond Cole did with Lithops are also included. Storms and Cole were nurseryman that discovered, propagated, studied, and sold lithops. The hybrids and forms that they discovered and named are still in many collections, and are regularly referred to by students of the subject. Several maps and photographs supplement the habitat section, and drawings are used to support the discussion of classification. The main body of the book describes the species and for what or whom the plant was named, and when. Although not shown next to the description, color plates are shown for all the plants described, and are referenced to the figure and page number they are on. The color pictures used to support the species descriptions are located within a few pages of the pages that the plants are described on. A discussion of distribution, a history of the plant and the cultivars are contained in the synopsis for all the plants discussed, where applicable. The appendices contain a question and answer section of commonly asked questions about Lithops. Also included are a list of species, synonyms, seeds and their sizes (in mm), other miscellaneous information about the plants, and two articles by other notable experts (Dr. AL Geyer and JY Clark).
After the highly successful and critically acclaimed Mesembs of the World, a book in which he was a major contributor, one would think Hammer's high water mark has been reached, but after reading this book, it's plain to see it's still rising. The text of the chapters are concise and well written, not only in content and style, but there's something distinctly different about this book that sets it apart from any other gardening book I've read---it's a true celebration of a genus! The humorous anecdotes and whimsical way several of the writings in the book appear make it obvious that Hammer intended this book to be more than a boring technical dissertation on a group of plants with pictures, descriptions and the usual articles about culture, habitat, etc., etc., etc. The titles of some the sections are a dead giveaway ("Pollination, Patience, and the Fuller-Fuller Brush Man", "Happily Ever Afterword"). The outstanding color photographs in the book are a must for one of this type, as many of the plants are difficult to identify, and the readers need all the help they can get. The book is a joy to read, in that it is both educational and entertaining. I can hardly wait for the next one.
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Pasteurizing Soil
By Chuck Staples
Mid-Iowa C&SS
The simplest way to insure clean, healthy soil for your plants is to pasteurize it (often mistakenly called sterilizing the soil). You do not want to kill off all the life in the soil, only the harmful organisms. Fortunately, the important and beneficial nitrate-producing bacteria can survive the heat of pasteurization, but almost all weed seeds, disease organisms and insects are killed off by it. Pasteurization is particularly important when starting seeds and cuttings because they are at a vulnerable stage. Heating the soil to 180 F for thirty minutes is the best and most common form of pasteurization. To pasteurize a small amount, place three or four inches of moist soil in a baking pan. Cover it with tinfoil and heat slowly in the oven until a thermometer inserted through the foil reads 180 F. Then turn off the oven and leave for thirty minutes before removing the pan and taking off the cover. The problem is making sure that all the soil is evenly heated. Since even a small number of harmful organisms can quickly reinfest the soil. Be careful not to overheat it in your oven. If you do at least two things will happen. One, you will kill off all life in the soil and, two, the kitchen will stink to high heaven. To heat the soil over 180 F and/or heat it longer than 30 minutes would be sterilizing the soil - and you don't want to do that. When I first started in this hobby some 20 years ago someone told me to sterilize the soil and, not knowing any better, I heated the soil in the oven to over 350 F. After about 20 minutes it stunk up the house so bad, I had to take the pan outdoors. At the time I didn't know the difference between pasteurizing and sterilizing the soil. Yes! I learned the hard way.
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Succulent Euphorbias of Africa and Madagascar
By Dennis Kucera
Open Gates (Gates C&SS)
The Euphorbia family (commonly known as the spurge family) has about 280 genera and 7,300 species world wide. They are found from the Arctic to the Antarctic, but are most common in temperate, tropical, and desert climates. This extremely variable family has members growing as annual herbs such as the weedy Euphorbia polycarpa (a flat, spreading annual invading our summer gardens). Other species grow into shrubs like castor bean (Riccinus communis) and poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherima) or as a tall, leafy tree (like Sapium sebiferum) known as the Chinese tallow tree and as Chinese poplar. Of most interest to us are the succulent Euphorbias that have spiny cactus-like stems with milky juice. These succulent Euphorbs are most numerous in Africa with about 400 species.
Madagascar has about 60 species. What makes this most variable group of plants members of the Euphorbia family is the unusual flower structure. The very small Euphorbia flower is cupped with five inner lobes alternating with one to five glands and male flowers (along the outer edge) with a female flower in the center. This flower structure is known as a cyatheum. With pollination, the flower develops a three celled dry capsule. Some of the more commonly grown Euphorbias are described as follows.
E. obesa is called a living baseball and gingham golf ball. This plant is dioecious (male or female) which grows into a cylindrical, spineless eight inch stem. It is grey-green in color with transverse ribs. It comes from South Africa.
E. tirucalli is known as milk bush, pencil tree, and rubber Euphorbia. It forms a many branched tree (up to 30 feet), coming from tropical and South Africa. Italian troops, invading Ethiopia in the late 1930's, had more casualties from the milky juice of this plant as they cut and pushed their way through thickets of this plant.
E. trigona, the African milk tree, is a succulent spiny shrub or tree with three fins to the branch and small leaves. It is a favorite house plant.
E. meloformis, the melon succulent, forms globose stems four inches high and 6 inches thick.
E. ingens is a spiny tree with height of up to thirty feet or more. The ribbed branches form a rounded crown, as wide as it is tall, like a giant candelabra.
E. grandicornis, known as the cows horn, forms a spiny, many branched shrub with yellow- green ribbed stems. It comes from South Africa.
E. caput-medusae, called Medusas head, is a dwarf perennial, of up to one foot tall with many finger-like stems, spreading to 30 inches across.
E. canariensis is a handsome, spiny tree of up to 20 feet in height with ascending branches (four to six ribbed) with paired spines. The juice is very poisonous, which calls for care in handling the plant.