Beginners Column
By Artie Chavez
From Cactus Chronicle -Los Angeles
Choosing The Perfect Plant
By Artie Chavez
From Cactus Chronicle -Los Angeles
Pots
By Artie Chavez
From Cactus Chronicle Los Angeles
Soil
By Artie Chavez
From Cactus Chronicle Los Angeles
Water
By Artie Chavez
From Cactus Chronicle Los Angeles
Roots
By Artie Chavez
From Cactus Chronicle Los Angeles
Collecting
By Artie Chavez From Cactus Chronicle Los Angeles
What Is A Cactus?
By Artie Chavez
From Cactus Chronicle Los Angeles
What Is A Succulent?
By Artie Chavez
From Cactus Chronicle Los Angeles
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Beginners Column
By Artie Chavez
From Cactus Chronicle -Los Angeles
So you're stuck on Cacti, or is it that you were at your local nursery and stumbled into the Succulent section and were intrigued by the sight of their display? As you peruse the area, you become aware of the unusual shapes, the spectacular flowers, and the pure natural beauty of the plants. Before you know it, you are standing at the check out stand and along with the daisies, fruit trees, sit one or two Succulents.
You continue to purchase plants at your first few sources and amass almost every Cactus on earth, or so you think all 15-20 species. Then one day you make a most disheartening discovery, one of your prize possessions is dead. You question why? We find the answer is not enough water, but you were just following orders, ``buy them and then forget about them.'' So you rethink your growing habits, if they need water, you will water them. You will now learn a new word, rot. All you find this time is a pile of mush. A few more deaths and replacements, you finally get the hang of growing, you also find that you have a nice supply of pots.
With this first success you yearn for more knowledge, books, and people to talk with, that don't raise their eyebrows and say, ``you grow what?'' Your thirst for knowledge is only surpassed by your quest for plants. On your own, you visit the library, bookstores, and perhaps a local Succulent nursery. You begin to learn what grows best for you in your conditions, and may find a special interest that you may want to pursue.
With this column I will try to ease your life as a new collector, by providing growing guidelines, deciphering the botanical language spoken at our meetings, and answer some of the questions that you may have. Remember that what you will read in this column is not the gospel, and should not be viewed as so the guidelines that I will be discussing come from personal experience and what will work for me, may not for you. Even if you live next door, we may have different growing conditions. A simple tree, wall, pool, or lawn will cause a variation in conditions, such as: temperature, sun exposure, or reflection, and moisture. Plan to experiment with light, watering, soils, fertilizers, and insecticides.
My major focus is to answer as many of your questions as I can and to share any tips I may have, and hopefully, give you a forum to share any of your tips. The one rule we should all adhere to is, the greatest knowledge is that gained through experience.
Future columns will cover choosing plants, soils, watering, propagation, and many other areas of the hobby. I would appreciate any suggestions or help with future articles.
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Choosing The Perfect Plant
By Artie Chavez
From Cactus Chronicle -Los Angeles
Shopping for plants is probably the most enjoyable part of the hobby and might be the most difficult process we will encounter as collectors.
As we walk through a nursery or the sales area of a show, we should have some type of idea as to what we want to buy and some specific plants we want to look for. With a little fore thought, our buying trips will be made a little easier and more enjoyable. We have all experienced the loss of sanity with our initial visit to a nursery. Our first urge is to load up our flat with loss abandonment, until we start to add things up and realize the amount of money that sits in our flat. After we regain consciousness we begin to put things back as fast or faster then we gathered them, before anyone sees us. We now take a step back and take a deep breath, before we start pulling plants again, this time taking our time and studying our choices.
We will now have narrowed our choices to specific species, and now the true shopping begins. We have found that one really rare and elusive species that we have looked for so long, and to our amazement there is an entire flat full to choose from, and our problem is we can only have one.
Which is the best? That's the magic question we all try at one point in our horticultural life to answer. Is there really an answer to this question? NO! The perfect plant will differ from one grower to the next. Don't despair, there are basic guidelines that will help you make better choices when buying plants. A little knowledge of the plant will help you in your decision, what are their growth habits or particular characteristics, what should you look for? Caudex, spines, color of spines and/or plant marking, or mottling, there a few things that you should take note when looking at a particular specimen, make sure the plant is in good health and in growth, it should be symmetrical, have even growth, and be pest free! Here are some things the plant should not be; etiolated, or pinhead, scarred, have broken branches, missing spines, different growth periods, restrictions, grunge creeping up the stem, emaciated, or looked pumped or forced. Pumped or forced refers to a plant that has been fed with heavy doses of fertilizer regularly to increase size at a rapid rate. If you purchase one of these plants, you should try to wean the plant off such steady diet of fertilizer thus hardening it off.
We face one more problem in choosing a plant, invariably not only will we have to choose which plant, but which size of plant we want to grow. This decision hinges on the amount of money we want to spend. So its seedling vs. specimens. Each has its advantages. With seedlings we have the opportunity to mod our own specimen, we can do so by constant pruning and training, creating any form we desire. Developing a caudex and tuberous roots to our own fancy. With cacti we may be able to develop clumps, and be able to maintain a constant and even growth, along with seedlings, you may be able to obtain some of the rare species that may be too expensive in specimen sizes. The advantages of purchasing specimen size plants are, the plants you acquire, may have taken many years to develop into a specimen. Also specimens will be a mature plant that will flower sooner than a seedling, which will hasten the possibility of setting seed. With specimen size plants, you be able to obtain plants that have been proven difficult to propagate.
After all of those preliminary decisions have been answered or solved, lets examine the flat that sits before us. What special features or attributes should we look for in a flat of plants, that on first inspection, they all seem to be identical?
There are elements we should look for, that separate an individual plant from the rest. In succulents or cacti, may be a bulging or distorted pot, indicating a well-developed roots system. An unusual leaf form or color might suggest a plant that may be well branched. Maybe some variegating or cresting that may occur. Any kind of unusual clump that may have developed, whether it be an unusual size, color, or number of flowers, very long or colorful spines, or unusual rib count or markings etc. When looking at plants, the primary objective is that we try to find the best and possibly the most unusual plant available at the time, which could give us that on-of-a-kind plant that everyone envies.
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Pots
By Artie Chavez
From Cactus Chronicle Los Angeles
The process of growing cacti and succulents in confining pot is in direct opposite to what plants are used to in nature. In nature roots are allowed to spread and seek the shelter and moisture of rock crevices. In cultivation do not allow this unless we use planter beds or in a landscape situation. In an open type of planting there is little concern to limiting the roots of plants, but growing in containers this must be at the for front of our thinking when growing plants. You should try to keep this in mind when trying to decide what type of pots you wish to use. There seems to be a limited amount of choices but which ever you decide keep the following things in mind when reviewing each choice.
Plastics are what most plants are grown in and what many growers keep their plants in. There are reasons as to why plastic is by far the most common type of pot you will run into the first being there easy to get at an inexpensive price. Plastic pots are not only cheap they're come in a wide variety of sizes, shapes, and colors. Another positive point to growing in plastic is that evaporation through the sides of the pot is nonexistent because of the non-porous material. About the only draw back that plastic has is that over time the Sun will eventually break down the particles of plastic and the pots will become brittle to the touch.
Clay, terra cotta, and unglazed stone were types of pots are also a very good choice. These pots come in very attractive styles and earth tone colors. It is almost impossible to over water in these types of pots because of their ability to breathe. As a result of their porous material the soil in these pots will dry much faster than that of other material and will require more frequent watering.
Glazed ceramic pots are yet another choice they have much the same advantages of clay pots and come in even more colors and designs. When choosing a pot that has glaze on it the best is to get a pot that has a light glaze or glaze on just the outside. Trying to use a pot that has a heavy glaze on the inside of the pot is near to impossible because as you push on one side of the plant in the pot it will shift towards the other side, but it can be done. With a heavy glaze on the inside the pot evaporation through the sides is almost none so you must be cautious with the water.
Whichever type of pot you choose to use keep in mind that the pot should contain large drainage holes. The pot should have some type of relief on the bottom of the pot in order to allow the water to escape. It does no good to have a fast draining mix if it can not get out of the pot.
The shape of the pot is important as well. A pot should allow the plant to have a much root room as possible with out being over potted and allow the plant to be re-potted with ease when the plant out grows its pot. A pot should have a tapered effect, a larger diameter at the top than the bottom; this will allow the plant to slip out with ease even if the plant is root bound. Pots that are shaped any other way with a smaller diameter at the top may have to broken in order to be re-potted. Pots that have lips or rims should be turned out ward rather than in because this too will inhibit the plant from easily coming out of the pot. The choice of pots is endless, the type or shape of pots is a personal thing but always try to pick a pot that will be best for the plant.
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Soil
By Artie Chavez
From Cactus Chronicle Los Angeles
The ingredients of soil mixes vary from grower to grower. Ask ten different growers what they use, they will give you ten different answers. Before we get into what goes into a mix let's understand what a mix should accomplish. The basic elements we must address when preparing a mix are support, air, water, nutrients, and availability. The mix should also be easy to work with.
When discussing support any mix will accomplish this, all that is needed from a mix is that it will keep the plant upright until the plant has developed a good root system to support itself.
Air is very important to a plant's good health. Your mix should allow air to reach the roots. The mix should contain large enough particles that the mix will not compact and turn to cement around the roots of the plant.
Water is essential to the growth of a plant, but too much may certainly spell death for them. Water works as a film around the particles of soil where the roots will then search for water and take it in. The mix should contain large enough particles as well as porous enough particles as to allow the water to escape from the pot. If water is allowed to remain in the soil without a chance to escape water will then fill the space between the particles pushing out the air, thus smothering the roots and causing root rot. Your soil should be porous as well as have a retentive quality. A soil must retain water so we don't have to constantly water the plant. A good soil will allow the excess water to drain off, yet retain enough moisture so that the plant will not stress between watering.
Nutrients must be supplied to plants that are cultivated in containers. Nutrients are supplied through the use of fertilizers. Whether the fertilizer is in solid capsulated form for time release or in liquid concentrate, the nutrients must be dissolved in water so it can be available to the roots. What you must be concerned with in regards to what type of soil you use or what ingredients you use, is the cation exchange capacity (CEC). This is the ability of the particles in the soil to attract and hold the nutrients on to their surfaces and then release them for plant consumption. Clay, humus, vermiculite, and peat moss, all have a very high CEC value, while sand, silt, redwood, sawdust, and pumice have almost no CEC value.
When creating you mix try to use ingredients that are readily available at your local nursery and at a reasonable price. A mix should be easy to work with. It should be light, there is nothing worse than not being able to lift a newly potted 4'' pot off the potting bench. Your mix should be loose so that it will easily surround the roots of a plant when re-potting.
Now that we have discussed what a good mix should accomplish, lets understand what a good mix is made up of. A good mix consists of four separate components: air, water, organic matter, and inorganic matter. Organic and inorganic matter come in many different forms
An example of inorganic matter that may be available for your mix is as follows; sand, silt, clay, loam, and decomposed granite. Each is simply just broken up rock. The difference between them is the size of their particles. Clay is the smallest and the most likely to compact and become like a brick. Silt and loam have larger particles but may be too small to use in a cactus and succulent mix because of a compacting problem. Decomposed granite possesses variable sizes of particles. Very large particles that may be beneficial to the mix and a large percentage of very fine particles that will filter down to the bottom of a pot and create a barrier which will not allow the water to drain. Decomposed Granite may be used in small quantities and if the material is screened first (construction cloth or window screen may be used), to eliminate the fine particles. From the five choices, sand is probably the best. It is of a consistent size, readily available, and inexpensive. Sand also comes in a number of particle sizes; the best is washed construction sand.
Vermiculite is a mineral called mica that has been expanded by heat to form layered sponge-like particles. Problems that arise with the use of vermiculite is that it retains far too much water and after time the material will break down and become sludge in the bottom of a pot, which will drown the roots of plants.
Perlite, or sponge rock is volcanic material that has been crushed and expanded by heat. It will not retain as much water as vermiculite, and it allows good air movement. Perlite is very light, making it a desirable additive to a good mix, but also a problem. Perlite is so light that when water is added, the perlite works its way up from your mix and floats at the top.
Pumice, also volcanic, is a material that has been crushed and is available in a number of different sizes. Pumice has a near neutral pH and provides excellent soil aeration. It is nearly impossible to over water when using pumice. Pumice is also excellent by itself when trying to cut roots or grow the hard and water sensitive plants. One disadvantage with pumice, compared to the other mediums, it is more expensive. It is also harder to find, and fairly heavy. However, the advantages far out weight the disadvantages.
Organic material is that part of the soil that will provide the nutrients that the plant will require to grow. One must also remember that with constant watering, most if not all nutrients are leached out. A fertilizing schedule should be developed or an annual or biannual re-potting schedule should be developed.
Peat moss is a widely used organic medium in general potting soils. But for cactus and succulent mix, it proves to hold too much water and when it dries out it is also hard to re-wet.
Shredded bark is a very good organic component, as long as you make sure the sawdust, shaving, etc. has been fixed with nitrogen. Because in order to break down the material, the soil will use up all of its nitrogen, leaving none for your plant.
Leaf mold is made up of decomposed leaves and is somewhat acidic. It will retain water well. In the past, leaf mold was hard to come by, now almost every nursery carries some type of it. This also is a good soil additive.
If aged properly, manure may be used as an organic component. Fresh manure of any sort contains so much nitrogen that it may burn the plant's roots.
Potting soil, or planting mix may also be used rather than trying to concoct a proper mix of your own. A good potting soil is superior to a planting mix because it contains smaller particles. When looking for a good potting soil, just refer to the requirements and warnings in this article and add 50% of inorganic material.
The above are some of the more common additives that are available from local sources, and by no means should you limit yourself to just these items. The perfect soil for cactus and succulents may never be achieved but keep trying. All the fun is in experimenting, trying something that no one else has ever thought of using before and creating that ``perfect'' mix.
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Water
By Artie Chavez
From Cactus Chronicle Los Angeles
When and how much? This is the most difficult skill to master as a grower, if one can master it at all. The first bit of advice one needs to forget about is ``buy a cactus and forget about it.'' True it will survive, but it will not thrive or flower for you. To simply put it plants need water, but they also need air around their roots. What you need to find is a good balance between air and water, too much air the plants will shrivel and starve too much water the plants will surely rot. To try to give one absolute answer or set a certain schedule is impossible, when a plant needs water depends on a number of different factors, this installment will help you understand and recognize the different factors that affect your plants.
The type of light that you give your plats will effect the amount of water that they will require. Plants that are grown in deep shade will require less than plants that are grown in full sun. Plants that are grown in protected areas such as shade houses or greenhouses will also require a different watering schedule. A plant given bright light all day long and kept at a moderate temperature will require less water than the same plant in the same light at a higher temperature.
Weather is probable the most important factor to a water schedule. As the temperature rises, the plant will accelerate its growth cycle, and the plant will require more water to grow properly. In extreme heat plants will wilt but if given water the plant will resurrect over night. Wind will also, cause a plant to require more water especially the dry Santa Ana winds that we get in the Valley. If the weather is cool, moist, foggy, or over cast with mild temperatures you need to increase the time between waters.
Growth periods are very important as when to water a plant. Watering at the wrong time of the year will spell certain death for your plants. Plants that have a spring and summer growing period can be watered thoroughly during their growing period without much thought. Plants that have their growing period during the winter is another story. Usually the rain that we get during the winter months will carry these plants through their growing periods, but during the droughts that we encounter you may have to water these plants the more conventional way. You must also remember that plants will need some water during their off growing seasons. To water winter grower during the summer is rather safe, try not to water as much as you would if they were growing but enough to keep their roots alive. Watering summer growing plants during the winter is little trickier. Your summer plants will need to be watered little during the winter to keep their roots alive. You should try to pick a day during the winter that is relatively warm and free of night frosts with a forecast of good weather for a few days. The number of times one should water during the winter depends on all the same factors that regulate your watering during the summer. Many people keep their plants completely dry during the winter with good success, but with this practice your plants will lose all of their roots and will be harder to bring out of their dormancy.
Two other very important factors that will gauge your watering schedule are the type of soil and the type of pot you use. When using a fast draining soil and the type of pot you use. When using a fast draining soil it will tend to dry out faster than if you were using a heavier type of soil. The type of pots will also have a determine factor on your watering. Plastic and glazed pots have less evaporation through the sides than the more porous clay or terra cotta pots.
Understanding your plants will also help you to understand their water requirements. Plants that have the ability to store large amounts of water, whether it be in their stems, leaves, roots, caudexes, or bodies will require less water than the thin stemmed plants that do not have the ability of water storage.
A simple way to know if you plant has moisture in its pot is to purchase a water meter at your local hardware store or nursery. Another more inexpensive way to tell is the pencil or shish-kA-bob test, stick the tip of the skewer in the pot (with out damaging roots) and if it comes back out damp and with some soil on it, don't water it.
Now that know when your plants will need water (when it's dry) how do you water them? There are two basic methods to watering, overhead and bottom watering. Overhead is he most common because it is faster and easier than bottom-watering. Overhead watering requires that you use a hose and some type of nozzle. The search for the perfect nozzle is a long one, the requirements of the perfect nozzle is one that allows a large volume of water with out being so strong that it will wash out the soil or top dressing from the pot. When overhead watering there are certain considerations that you should keep in mind, such as plants that have a bloom (the white powder that some plants have on their leaves) overhead watering may wash the bloom off, also plants that have wool on them may become matted. A simple solution to this is to carefully water around the base of the plant not getting any water on the top. Bottom watering is the alternative to overhead watering. The tools needed for bottom watering is simple a large pail or tub to submerge the pots to the rim. Set the plant in to the tub and allow the plant to wick up the water from the bottom through the drain holes until the top of the surface is moist. This is a good way to water because of its thoroughness but if you have a large collection this method becomes impractical.
How much do you water? When watering your plants during their growing periods you should soak them. Water until the water runs out from the drainage holes. After a few close calls of giving your plants too much water and not enough you will get the hang of it.
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Roots
By Artie Chavez
From Cactus Chronicle Los Angeles
We shall now get to the root of the problem. Most problems that we experience begin with an unhealthy root system. To help solve these problems we need to understand more about the root structure itself.
Cacti and succulent's roots serve several purposes; they provide anchorage for the plants against strong winds. They also absorb and store water and food material in their thick and enlarged roots for periods of time when water is unavailable. During times of extreme drought, roots will turn and grow towards the surface in search of moisture. The roots of succulents have adapted a specialized ability of rapid water absorption. This special ability enables them to utilize the slightest rainfall or moisture, from heavy fogs or dews that may roll in at night. The moisture collects and runs down the body to the base, at the soil line, where the plant has developed a large concentration of roots and quickly absorbs the water from the surface.
Roots that spread and grow close to the surface are known to have a fibrous root system. Roots that exhibit this system will grow great distances from the plant in search of water. Some examples are; Crassulas, Stapelias, and most Cacti.
Another root type we encounter in succulents are that of tuberous roots. In this system the lateral roots are extremely thick and fleshy for the storage of water and food. Trichodiadema, Monadeniums, Euphorbias, Wilcoxia, and Peniocereus all have the type of root system in their genera.
The most desired structure of roots that collectors seek is that of thick taproot type. A taproot is the first root sent down after germination, these roots continue to grow and thicken with little lateral growth. These roots can sometimes reach a few feet in length and weigh as much as a hundred pounds. In cultivation the last two root structures are raised, both for aesthetic reasons, and to reduce the possibility of root rot damage.
The main purpose of roots, is the absorption of water and food from the soil. This process is done by the root hairs. Root hairs are the real key to good growing. The root hairs grow from the tip of the lateral root, and as the lateral root continues to grow the tip will mature and become part of the body of the lateral root. At this point the old root hairs are them sloughed off and new ones will grow at the tip. We must keep the root hairs healthy and growing, this will ensure that the plant will continue absorbing water and foods for the plant during the growing season.
In cultivation we have problems with our root system because of constant changes in our climate and/or conditions, which effect potted plants far more than those growing in the wild. In nature, when water becomes scarce, there is slow and an even drying of the soil, this allows the plant to adapt to the lack of water. In cultivation we do not have a large volume of soil, or large rocks for the plants to adapt to. Thus we must maintain a good watering schedule in the growing season. The most common damage to roots and root hairs is stress. Stress is the ``growth then die back'' syndrome that occurs when a plant is watered, which stimulates growth and then is allowed to completely dry out before the next watering, which causes the new roots that were active to dry and then die. So it is very important that we keep our roots healthy. In order to have healthy roots we must maintain a good watering and fertilizing schedule, use a good soil or mix for our plants (a good mix is on that is loose and fast draining), and keep the insects that attack the roots under control. A strong and vigorous root system means a strong and beautiful plant.
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Collecting
By Artie Chavez From Cactus Chronicle Los Angeles
Starting a collection comes about many different ways, receiving a plant as a gift or visiting a friend who has a collection and receiving our first cutting. Maybe acquiring a dish garden from a novelty shop got you started. The addition of a greenhouse window or sunroom will also cause one to discover succulents, with the assumption that these plants will require little care and will take the direct sun and intense heat. So thus begins our trek to locate these types of plants, our first sighting may be at the super market, or Home Depot, or at our local nursery. Once we are exposed to the diversity of the Succulent world, we end up buying a few more plants than expected. As we continue to add to our collections, some of our plants will continue to grow, thrive, and flower. As others seem to just sustain themselves and eventually die. We understand this as to be a learning process.
As we become more involved with succulents we will naturally gravitate to one genera, or family, or type of plant, i.e.: Euphorbias, Ariocarpus, Mesmbs., caudex, columnar cacti, or even a specific area of the hobby such as propagation; growing from seeds, grafting, hybridizing, or bonsai succulents, or landscaping, etc. After we discover our interest we start to search high and low to quench our new passion. Before we get out on a limb with all of these new plants, and the death rate seems to exceed our living inventory, there are a few points to growing we must consider. The most common questions we will encounter are that of light, water, temperature requirements, special soil, growing season is winter or summer, amount of space necessary, and does the plant require special handling? Euphorbias have a latex residue. Adenias have a toxic residue. Both may cause skin and eye irritation. How do we get these questions answered? First we must consider where we purchase our plants; it only stands to reason that we will receive more information from a nursery that specializes in cacti or succulents. Another way is to be acquainted with a more experienced grower and pick their brains. (There are plenty at each meeting, look for one with similar interests and take him or her aside.)
Eventually you will learn what grows best for you ad in your conditions. One word of caution is not to let your collection grow too large or fast. But there are no real rights or wrongs to collecting and you don't need to fall into any category to be a collector, the bottom line is to just have fun.
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What Is A Cactus?
By Artie Chavez
From Cactus Chronicle Los Angeles
Now that we know what a Succulent is, or at least the basis of a Succulent, lets learn about Cactus. Cacti for the most part come from the New World. Cacti not only come from the deserts that they are so often associated with, but they also thrive in mountain, jungle, and rain forest regions.
One might think the most obvious distinction of cacti is their spines. This is true, but the real difference between Cacti and Succulents, and any other plants, that might have spines or thorns, is where the spines emanate from. This area is known as the aureole, which is the white woolly cushion area where the spines, leaves, branches, pups, hair or wool, and flowers are produced.
Spines are really modified leaves, where the blade of the leaf is undeveloped and the leaf stalk, or stipules are stiff. Why do Cacti have spines? One explanation is for protection, against grazing animals. The spines will also protect the plant from its harsh environment, the intense sun, and in some areas keep the snow off the epidermis. Spines also protect the plant from unnecessary transpiration. Where there are dense clusters of spines or bristles covering the stem of the plant or more important the stomata, the air remains still not allowing the stomata to open. Another theory suggests that the spines act as ducts to collect moisture from the evening fogs and dews. When enough condensation collects the droplets will run down the spine to the aureole which acts like a sponge and soaks it up, (there is still some confusion as to whether the plants at this point will some how assimilate the moisture) and when enough moisture has collected it will run down the body of the plant to the soil line where the roots will take over. There are many types of spines: straight, hooked, plumose, bearded, multicolored, and barbed (which are know as glochids). We may not truly understand the purpose of spines, but there is no question as to the beauty that they add to the plant and their true distinction from lesser plants.
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What Is A Succulent?
By Artie Chavez
From Cactus Chronicle Los Angeles
You must own at least one cactus or succulent, or you would not be reading this. Everyone's first question seems to be ``How do I take care of this?'' If you're afraid to ask this question, you should not be, because answering this question is tougher than one would think, and is also the first question the experts ask when they receive a new plant.
With this question in mind let's try to examine how to answer it. The following is a common conversation that we all have experienced, being on one end or the other, ``How do I take care of this thing?'' Our first instinct is to discuss watering, when and how much. But in order to answer this we need to know what is being watered, so we ask with all the encouragement and patience as possible, ``What is it?'' The reply we get, `` Well, it's green and has spines, and OH! It's that one that flowers!'' Well we asked, obviously we need more information. Our next question, ``Is it a cactus or succulent?'' That will clear everything up, right, WRONG, the response is that of a blank stare. OK, here it is, the opportunity to show just how much knowledge we have and as we blurt out ``Well a cactus is a succulent, but A succulent is now a cactus.'' Where did that come from? Who knows, but boy did it sound good. Our attention returns to the person that we were trying to help, and we thought we had a blank stare before. The next bit of wisdom we are about to share will clear everything up, after all it came from an esteemed botanist, we begin to recite ``A cactus has spines and a succulent has thorns, or is it the other way around?'' Before we know it we are standing alone.
Seriously, it is true that a cactus is a succulent, what we need to explore is what makes a plant a succulent. Most simply put, succulents increase their drought tolerance in two simple ways. First, the word succulent means to have juicy tissues. The juice refers to the ability of the plant to store water. Succulents store water in a number of different places in their anatomy, such as their leaves, stems, bodies, trunks (caudex), and roots. Second, succulents have the ability to conserve water in several ways, the most unusual of which, is the CRASSULACEAN ACID METABOLISM (CAM), this is considered a high evolutionary feature. First described in the Crassulacean Family. This process is related to the transformation process of photosynthesis and respiration.
Like foliage plants, succulents need to make food in order to live and to grow. Photosynthesis is the process in which plants convert carbon dioxide and water in the presence of sunlight, and the green pigment known as chlorophylla, to form sugars, oxygen, and water. Water and salts enter through the roots, them are pulled up to the photosynthesizing tissues. Air enters through special valves called stomata. When opened it allows the intake of Carbon Dioxide and allows the release of oxygen and water vapors, the stomata open during the day and close at night, ending photosynthesis. At night another process begins that of respiration, which reverses the process of photosynthesis, breaking down rather than building up sugars in the presence of water and oxygen, releasing the energy to the plant.
In succulents the daily cycle is the same, photosynthesis still occurs during the day, but the opening of the stomata is reversed. The stomata remain closed during the day and open at night to allow the intake of air. With the stomata opening at night the evaporation of the plant's moisture vapor is minimized in the cool of the evening. This reversal also has two other effects, it requires that Carbon Dioxide be stored over night awaiting daylight for photosynthesis and it slows the plants growth rate.
This was a quick lesson in understanding what a succulent is. With all of these interesting modifications these plants will survive under the harshest conditions by conserving and reserving their resources.